DAYS 301-303: Deltaville to Tangier Island

Deltaville to Middle of the Bay: 8.2 mph; 10.3 miles; 1:15 hours

Middle of the Bay to Tangier Island: 8.5 mph; 17.7 miles; 2:05 hours

LEVI BEFORE THE CROSSING

We are traveling back across the Chesapeake Bay to Tangier Island. This will be Levi’s first crossing - hope the kiddo can handle the ride … he had waffles, bacon, and eggs for breakfast.

LEVI AFTER THE CROSSING

He was just fine!

Parks’ Marina:

$30/night for boats under 30’ and $35/night for over 30’. Electric, water, shower/bathroom. 

You have to call Mr Parks and hell direct you, with great detail, how to enter the harbor and 'stay off the beach'.

The island is quiet in April and doesn’t really get going until May. Two of the three restaurants, and one of the two ice cream stands, will not open this year because of financial hardships caused by COVID. 

There must have been an island meeting recently because there was a lot of local talk about redesigning the town to resemble ‘the old fishing village’ and tidying up the tourist section. What I love is this: with an aging population of about 400, they still look to improve for tourism to pass their legacy. I love these people.

WHAT IS SO SPECIAL ABOUT TANGIER ISLAND?

Everything. You will slip into Parks’ Marina and meet the one and only, Mr Parks. Ok, back up, Parks is a big name on the island, so there are a few Mr Parks, but THIS Mr Parks is sorta special to me. When you meet him, you will understand. He is 91 years old this coming July and one of four remaining students from his high school graduating class of ‘just a few more’. His wife, who died 10 years ago this coming Wednesday, had 32 cats. Now there is only one left plus a ‘come’er’ that showed up last year. 

Mr Parks, Milton, is also a sweetheart and I love the attention he showers. Jim was tying a line and Parks gruffly told him, "you're doing it wrong," then turned to me and gave a wink and a smile. I just love that man. I also got the update on his girls and the family.

Something important to know about this island is that your boat might be wet but not the island. It is a DRY ISLAND and intoxication is not acceptable - no matter who you are or how much you own. Do not insult this community - I say that with love in my heart for every single one of them; they are all special to me.

Back in 1998, Hollywood came to the island wanting to make the movie, Message in a Bottle starring Kevin Costner and Paul Newman.. The island folk gathered for a meeting and gave Hollywood a hard NO. Why? I mean, think of the monetary influx for the community, the advertisement for such a remote island, the spotlight. Well, they didn’t want any of that; but the reason for turning down the movie was the objectionable language and a few sex and drinking scenes. This is an island of church-folk and nothing will change that.

My friend, and Tangier legend, Captain Charles, worked with the Chesapeake Bay Foundation. He was our captain when CBF brought teachers from Fairfax County Public Schools to the island and Isle Isobel. He was always willing to share his knowledge of the Bay and help out anyway possible. Because I was off all gluten, Captain Charles would make my fish dinner first ‘just like (his) mother use to make.’ He passed away in 2014; today I visited his grave and placed a Cat’s Paw shell on his grave - like I do every visit. While looking for his grave, I met four of his cousins and his sister. I love this place.

There was an Easter egg hunt for all the kids on the island - islanders and visitors alike. We have young Levi and, not only did he bring in an impressive haul, he helped the 'littles' collect candy as well. He is such a good person.

UPDATE: It saddens me to write that Mr Parks passed away May 18, 2022. The world is a smaller today and a little piece of history is missing. For those who never had the chance to meet him, I am sorry for your loss; he was a great man. I have added a picture of the handsome devil - I will really miss him.